Day 3:  Trek from Balu ka Gera to Sheagoru via Hampta Pass

We woke up early by 6 AM and geared up for the steep section of the Hampta Pass Trek after the breakfast. We had some high-calorie food and our guide also gave us chocolates and juices so that we could refuel up our body during the trek. The weather was cold but lucid in the morning. All the nearby peaks were visible so I decided to capture them by changing the lens from 18 – 55 mm to 250 mm one. Clicked some good photos and then packed up my bag.

Peaks Visible from the Balu ka Gera campsite – Hampta Pass Trek
Peaks Visible from the Balu ka Gera campsite – Hampta Pass Trek

We began our trek by 8 AM and took the upwards route going through the boulders. Just after 10 minutes of walk, we started feeling the cold and strong wind. The wind was quite sharp and bitter. We took a pause and covered our neck & face with the scarf and neck warmer. The complete trail up to the pass was steep and brimmed with boulders. We were ascending in the zigzag way as it becomes easy to walk on a steep route. Indrasan and Deo Tibba peaks were visible from the trek. We were already above the tree line and there were just boulders, glaciers and glacial streams.

The steep stretch to the pass – Hampta Pass Trek
The steep stretch to the pass – Hampta Pass Trek

It took us around 2 hours and we reached the top from where we had to take the left turn to reach the Hampta Pass. We could see the pass from that point and also the Lahaul & Spiti Valley. All the passes I had yet been to were U-shaped like a depression in between the mountains but Hampta Pass was quite different. The pass lies on the edge of a mountain.

Indrasan and Deo Tibba visible from the trail - Hampta Pass Trek
Indrasan and Deo Tibba visible from the trail – Hampta Pass Trek

Finally, we reached the pass and had some photoshoots. The experience of reaching the pass was surreal.  If I elaborate the view in my words, we could see the Lahaul and Spiti valley on our left, Indrasan peak in the front and few knife-edge peaks on our right. Deo Tibba was also there standing adjacent to Indrasan. After having lunch, we started the descent as we had to reach the Sheagoru campsite. We were at 14200 feet and the campsite was at 12800 feet that means we had to come down 1400 feet.

The Pass - Hampta Pass Trek
The Pass – Hampta Pass Trek

The downhill trail was quite steep and full of scree which made the walk slippery and risky. We had to pay so much attention while coming down otherwise we were all aware of the consequences. 😛 There were several times when I slipped and fell down but thanks to my rucksack which protected me from any injury. This is why I always suggest that everyone should carry their backpack during the trek. It maintains your posture and protects you as well. Coming back to the trek, so it took us around 1 hour to finish the steep descent and another 1 hour to reach the campsite. After reaching the campsite, we just relaxed and enjoyed the moment of contentment because we had successfully crossed the Hampta Pass. All the difficult part of the trek was finished. Now we just had to do a short downhill trek to reach the road head which was Chattru, our last campsite.

Sheagoru was the coldest campsite on the entire trek. Though the altitude was lower than the Balu Ka Gera campsite but the difference was that Sheagoru was situated in the Lahaul & Spiti valley and Balu ka Gera was in Kullu valley. In the evening we had a small bonfire and then dinner. It was a full moon and the Sheagoru river was shining amazingly.

While descending towards Sheagoru Campsite - Hampta Pass Trek
While descending towards Sheagoru Campsite – Hampta Pass Trek

Day 4: Trek from Sheagoru to Chattru

We got ready for our last stretch of the trek, which was probably the easiest one but the start was thrilling. Initially, we were on the left side of the river and we had to cross it barefoot because there was no bridge available. We took off our shoes and got into the river. The water was icy cold and the river was bigger than the previous one. We boosted up our confidence, took long breaths and started crossing the river by singing the song “Nanha Munha Rahi Hu, Desh ka Sipahi Hun” and gradually we crossed the river. 

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Peaks visible from Sheagoru Campsite - Hampta Pass Trek
Peaks visible from Sheagoru Campsite – Hampta Pass Trek

 

Then we continued our trek and after walking for about an hour we could see the road stretch. It took us around 2 hours and we reached our campsite which was situated at Chattru. The whole trek went well but now came the twist. As per the plan, we had to reach Chattru and after lunch, we were supposed to drive Chandratal and then come back to Chattru for the night stay. Unfortunately, the taxi couldn’t come because it got stuck in a traffic jam near Rohtang Pass. We then explored Chattru and waited for the taxi at the campsite. The taxi came at 6 PM in the evening and we did not have enough time to visit the lake. So we decided to visit the lake on the next day in the early morning. We discussed with the guide and driver and decided to leave at 3 AM in the morning. We had dinner, played cards and slept early.

Day 5: Drive from Chattru to Chandratal and then drive back to Manali

The alarm rang at 2 AM and we quickly freshened up and got ready. Though it was quite difficult to get ready at that time because the temperature was in negative yet somehow we managed. We departed for Chandratal at 3 AM and our drive on the roads of Spiti Valley began. The night was dark and the roads were in the worst of conditions. Those who have already been to Spiti Valley can easily understand what I am trying to say. We continuously drove for 2 hours on a single road and reached a point where the road diverged into two roads, one going straight and the other one going right. Since morning, we hadn’t seen a single person or a car on the road. We looked at the board and followed it. The board directed us right for Chandratal and the straight route was going towards Kunzum Pass and Kaza. We resumed our drive and continued for another hour but we were not getting any signs of the lake.

After some time, we saw a hut on the top and found that we reached the Kunzum top. The guy there told us at the board is wrong. We took a stop there and then took the U-turn. It took another 2 hours and finally, we were at the lake. We drove up to the parking and started walking towards the lake from there. The walk was of about 1 KM and we got the first view of the lake. The lake was much more beautiful than what I expected. The surroundings were surreal and view of the CB-12 peak was enhancing the beauty of the lake. It was like an icing on the cake. We did a long photo session and spent some good time there.

While driving towards Chandratal Lake - Hampta Pass Trek
While driving towards Chandratal Lake – Hampta Pass Trek

Mighty Chandrabhaga CB-12 Peak seen from Chandratal - Hampta Pass Trek
Mighty Chandrabhaga CB-12 Peak seen from Chandratal – Hampta Pass Trek 

Then we started our journey back to Chattru. Reached there by 12 and after having lunch, we drove back to Manali. Our drive to Manali passed through Gramphu (the road gets divided into two. One leads towards Keylong and Leh and the other one leads towards Spiti valley), Rohtang Pass and Marhi. After spending days in the barren landscapes of Lahaul and Spiti valley, we finally got to see greenery after crossing the Rohtang Pass. It was an overwhelming feeling to see such greenery after this long span. We reached Manali by 6 in the evening and then boarded the bus to Delhi.

While driving back to Chattru from Chandratal - Hampta Pass Trek
While driving back to Chattru from Chandratal – Hampta Pass Trek

Hampta Pass was on my bucket list since I start to learn about trekking. The trek was amazingly beautiful and so were the experiences. Lush green forest and valleys of Kullu valley, lofty mountains and gorges, mighty peaks of Pir Panjal ranges, river crossing, surreal view of Chandratal, treacherous roads of Spiti valley, steep climb to Hampta Pass and of course the quality time spent with the trek mates and guide. All these experiences made this trek a wonderful one.

Thanks for reading.
 
Stay tuned for my next travel/adventure experience 😊

Written by

Manu Khandelwal

An engineer and a travel blogger. Loves trekking and doing bike road trips. Burger lover (want to try every burger in the world). Clinomaniac. Sports fanatic. Likes technology but not a technology addict.